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February 17, 2000


Full Ho restaurant, 240 N. Jones. 878-2378 FULL HO

There's nothing like going back to the old neighborhood, you know, walking the old streets, remembering a misspent youth, recalling old friends, getting misty over games like stickball and kick the can, seeing Dimaggio in his prime, hey, who'm I fooling? This is Vegas, where nostalgia is for losers, and the ole neighborhood didn't exist six years ago, yeah here if it ain't nuthin', only a handful of restaurants have stood the test of time. And classy, well-run ethnic joints are few and far between. One of the last places you'd expect to find one of these is in a downscale neighborhood, but at Jones and the Expressway, in a shopping center that's seen better days, you will find the Full Ho restaurant. It is simply one of our best Chinese restaurants. Correction: It is one of our best restaurants, period and it's only gotten better--without raising prices that were dirt cheap in the first place.

You want an example? Well, how about a chicken salad that's not much to look at, but is chock full of crunchy fried chicken, won ton strips, badly town iceberg lettuce and bathed in a perfect orange sesame vinaigrette, ok ok, it's not that good, but at $4.50 it's not that bad either and it tastes exactly like the one at Spago which costs four times as much. In fact, this clicheed salad may be the weakest link in the menu which is a pretty strong statement. Every dish impresses here with an extra level of freshness and technique tasteable in every bite. Try the firecracker beef, lemon chicken or any seafood dish and you'll see why the Full Ho is full of customers every night of the week, for my money, the Full Ho, along with Wo Fat on East Desert Inn and 1-6-8 Shanghai, completes the holy trinity of Chinese restaurants in our town.

Just don't ask me to recommend the neighborhood.

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