I tried, I really tried to concentrate solely on inexpensive and locally-owned places for the rest of this year, and true to my word the next few weeks will feature reviews on some mighty fine local joints that serve up some serious bang for the buck. But there is an extraordinary experience to be had at the Four Seasons these days, and it would be a disservice to all you winos, foodies and chowhounds not to mention it.
Now Ive always been a big fan of the Four Seasons
I mean whats not to like? The place smells better than any hotel Ive ever been in, has great valley parking and the service is so good that at least five people welcome you before you hit the front door. Best of allit may have the best steakhouse, and the best steak, in town right now. Charlie Palmers STEAK is the name of this subterranean joint, but the name doesnt tell half the story.
What I mean isthis is a beef emporium that even seafooders can love. How they get such plump and flavorful shellfish in July is anyones guess, but no one in town comes close to the sparkling briny freshness of the shrimp, lobsters, oysters and clams that are artfully brought to table atop a giant platter of shaved ice
its the best summertime meal I know
and even at sixty bucks for two is a bargain for quality this high
But these wonders of the deep were only a prelude to a cut of meat that carnivores crave
what Im referring to is the hangar steak
called the onglet by the French
a rough diaphragm muscle resembling a flank steak, that is so full of flavor that one bite and youll swear off that tried and trite bone-in rib-eye forever. Combine these standouts with a creative menu, wonderful side dishes, good bread, and a great wine list, and meat eaters (and their fish loving dates) never had it so good. For now anyway, Im dissin you Delmonico, and pre-empting you Prime, cuz theres no better beef in town right now than hangin with a hangar steak at my homeboy Charlies.
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