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September 09, 1999

FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Schuler's Roadhouse


There's a small slice of Cincinnati on Spring Mountain Road that just might serve the best bar food in town. Schuler's Roadhouse is the joint--and a better menu of cholesterol-rich fare is hard to find. In a town with an insatiable appetite for forgettable chicken fingers, atrocious onion rings and noxious nachos---schulers roadhouse has the audacity to break this mouldy mold of trite and true bar specialities with flown in food from one of our countries bastions of unique cuisine.

Having once lived near the Queen City--whose symbol happens to be a flying pig of all things--I can attest to the wonderful and idiosyncratic food of this southern Ohio town. Schuler's imports most of these Cincinnati specialties like Montgomery Inn Ribs, Skyline Chili and Coney Dogs ---which---are served on super-soft buns laden with the aforementioned chili and shredded cheese so the whole gooey mess melts in your mouth.

This is quintessential pub grub and it's perfect for soaking up one of 21 draft beers offered here. If that selection seems slim--go for one of the 71 beers by the bottle. The decor may remind you of Britain, but the food takes me straight back to southern Ohio --- where I whiled away my law school days chowing down on 3, 4 or 5 Ways, (which is thick spaghetti covered with chili, cheese, onions or beans) depending on how gassy one wants to get. That Cincinnati chili is also one of a kind. It's to Cincinnati what the bagel is to New York. It's a rare treat and thanks to Schuler's Roadhouse, you can finally taste what all the fuss is about. But don’t say I didn’t warn you….once you get addicted to 4 ways and coney dogs, you might give up on reheated chicken wings forever.

Schuler's Roadhouse, 4755 Spring Mountain Road; 252-7427.

This is John Curtas.

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