April 11, 2002
For years Ive rhapsodized about Delmonico and Charley Palmers
and I return to them both like a faithful lover whenever Im in need of the outstanding steaks and service that distinguishes them from others who might seduce me with their charms.
But lately, I must confess, my affections have wandered. Oh fickle pommes frites of fate
..why hast thou tempted me so? I have strayed. Another, actually two, pretty young things have caught my eye
and more and more Ive been coming around less and less. Yes my palette has been tempted by the filetof another
Her name is Prime
..a place so beautiful that its hard to concentrate on the steaks as you gaze upon our towns prettiest dining room. A water level view of the Bellagios fountains is one of many visual distractions at this distinctively modern room that still captures the tuck and roll charm of Johnny Mathis in a powder blue tux. But the menu quickly dispels any notion this is standard steak and bake, with creative takes on everything from my beloved New York strip (coated with 6 different peppercorns no less, thirteen different spuds, incredibly fresh fish, and a rice wine/soy steak sauce that is addictive. Let sommelier John Burke guide you through the wine list for a perfectly romantic meal at a perfectly high pricewell it IS the Bellagio after alland I AM cheating on Charley and Emeril
so Id better expect to pay for it
And if Im not in the mood to pay for all that nouveau flash, you can find me kickin it old school these days at Del Friscos
..which is sorta like a comfortable old flame you cozy up to once in a while just for old times sake
. Slightly less expensive than Prime, it harkens back to the dark wood/white tablecloth template of classics like Palm and Gallaghers
with just enough southwest spice to keep things lively
And if Prime has the best looking room in town
.Ive got to give the nod to Del Friscos for the best looking hostesses
.Not that they have anything to do with the food
.but like I always say: if youre gonna stray
.you might as well go all the way.
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