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April 11, 2002
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FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Prime Infidelity

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Prime Infidelity

For years I’ve rhapsodized about Delmonico and Charley Palmer’s…and I return to them both like a faithful lover whenever I’m in need of the outstanding steaks and service that distinguishes them from others who might seduce me with their charms.

But lately, I must confess, my affections have wandered. Oh fickle pommes frites of fate…..why hast thou tempted me so? I have strayed. Another, actually two, pretty young things have caught my eye…and more and more I’ve been coming around less and less. Yes my palette has been tempted by the filet—of another….

Her name is Prime…..a place so beautiful that it’s hard to concentrate on the steaks as you gaze upon our town’s prettiest dining room. A water level view of the Bellagio’s fountains is one of many visual distractions at this distinctively modern room that still captures the tuck and roll charm of Johnny Mathis in a powder blue tux. But the menu quickly dispels any notion this is standard steak and bake, with creative takes on everything from my beloved New York strip (coated with 6 different peppercorns no less, thirteen different spuds, incredibly fresh fish, and a rice wine/soy steak sauce that is addictive. Let sommelier John Burke guide you through the wine list for a perfectly romantic meal at a perfectly high price—well it IS the Bellagio after all—and I AM cheating on Charley and Emeril… so I’d better expect to pay for it……

And if I’m not in the mood to pay for all that nouveau flash, you can find me kickin’ it old school these days at Del Frisco’s…..which is sorta like a comfortable old flame you cozy up to once in a while just for old time’s sake…. Slightly less expensive than Prime, it harkens back to the dark wood/white tablecloth template of classics like Palm and Gallagher’s…with just enough southwest spice to keep things lively……And if Prime has the best looking room in town….I’ve got to give the nod to Del Frisco’s for the best looking hostesses….Not that they have anything to do with the food….but like I always say: if you’re gonna stray….you might as well go all the way.

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