How We Eat Now

Wanna provoke a couple of Italian cooks into a raging battle? Just ask ’em whose Nonna makes the best meatballs. The legion of meatball recipes in existence attests to the personal nature of the beast, but the main requirement is that they have to have clearly been conceived with soul. And that’s the case with Chef Alessandra’s Meatballs at Azzura in Henderson. She's been making them for 25 years, with a blend of veal, beef, and pork, deep-fried to retain the juices, cloaked in marinara sauce and — just to gild the lily — topped with a jot of basil oil. You’d swear there’s an ancient lady with rolled-down stockings in the kitchen, wielding an even older wooden spoon. They're 6 ounces each, and you can get a trio as an appetizer, or choose the spaghetti with meatballs, which comes with a pair. — Heidi Knapp Rinella

Opened in 2024 in North Las Vegas, Nom Pang, which means bread or sandwich in Khmer, offers more than sandwiches. In this family-style café you’ll find traditional Cambodian foods — such as chicken curry. The curry is bold and spicy, made of red curry paste, lemongrass, root spices, bamboo shoots, potatoes, and onions, complemented with toppings, such as green and red cabbage, bean sprouts, and cucumber, that mellow the heat. For an authentic experience, squeeze some lime on top. For the growing Cambodian population in Clark County, this curry emerges as a symbol of strength for those who escaped the Khmer Rouge — or anyone who overcame undue hardships or has a spirit of adventure. Next, look for their yellow-green fish curry or nam banh chok. — Sarah Bun

Esther’s Kitchen is the foundation of James Trees’ restaurant empire and perhaps the Butterscotch Budino is the foundation of Esther’s Kitchen — or at least embodies its sophisticated-yet-cozy aura. A ribbon of whiskey caramel floats on top of creamy butterscotch, dollops of chantilly cream, and dots of honeycomb crunch. The mixture of textures and layers of flavors creates the sort of dessert you intend to share, but wind up devouring yourself. — Lissa Townsend Rodgers

Courtesy Esther's Kitchen

Are you a fry fanatic? For me, there’s nothing better than “the devil’s starchy fingers” (Gilmore Girls wink) when craving a guilty pleasure. The patatas bravas at Braseria by EDO are satisfyingly sinful. Thinly sliced potato stacks offer tantalizing texture and so much ASMR crunch. Take one nibble of these flaky, salty, hot layers, and you’ll fantasize about your next visit. They come with a traditional Spanish brava sauce, smoky and tart. The wedges are large, but you won’t want to share. — Lorraine Blanco Moss

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Braseria by EDO

Las Vegas Bakey’s stuffed conchas are the pastry of the moment, prompting viral videos and long lines. The traditional Mexican pastry is given a cream filling (and what isn’t improved by a cream filling?), crossing the panaderia with the donut shop. Flavors can lean in either direction, from mango and dulce de leche to Oreo and strawberry shortcake, and the combination of cake-like pastry with flavored filling is a winner. — L.T.R.

In a culture characterized by extravagance, sometimes you want to quiet down to enjoy a nice meal — think white tablecloths — without the excess hype. Welcome to Fideuá Taste of Spain, opened in 2024 by Farman Khaligh. Eating the seafood fideuá can feel like being whisked away to coastal Valencia, Spain, where it is said to originate. Fideuá is similar to paella but uses noodles instead of rice. Here, the noodles are topped with clams and mussels, immersed in vegetables and herbs, such as ñora peppers, tomatoes, garlic, saffron, and house-made stock. Las Vegas is lucky to have it. — S.B.

Fideuá Taste of Spain

Oh love, oh wonder, oh simple pleasure! Were I to write an ode to offal dishes that bring joy to enthusiasts of lesser-loved meats, this dish would dance couplets recto to verso! Chopped, silkened, and sauced gizzard meat is tossed in a blazing pan with diced garlic cloves and chopped garlic scapes. A frenzy of allium sativum and chewy chicken that perfectly pairs with rice and a pitcher of dry lager. Ichiza has been serving it since the late 1990s and might still be the only game in town for this specific dish. A staple of the city's late-night dining, it gives you a taste of midnight Tokyo with a view of the Vegas skyline. — Brent Holmes

It’s a bit cheeky, but you won’t forget this adventurous take on a Southern diner classic. The “chicken fried” frog legs & waffles for brunch at Bar Boheme are fun and surprisingly memorable. They taste like chicken, but a bit sweeter. The ample waffle is a zesty corn-forward delight. Paired with a spicy maple syrup and beautiful salted butter, this breakfast pick is anything but basic. — L.B.M.

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Bar Boheme

Le Bon Goût Chez Fa (“Good Taste by Fa” in French) is a 100 percent Halal-certified Senegalese restaurant in which owner Fatima Sy’s traditional home-cooked meals meet Las Vegas modern taste. One bite of Sy’s African beignets offers an experience unlike any other in town. Where many might be accustomed to the square or hybrid versions of beignets, these crispy round balls, which can be made with or without coconut, are deep-fried until golden brown, and then dusted with sugar or drizzled with honey. This may be a treat that disrupts the conventional and starts a trend all on its own. — S.B.

Golden, puffed, fried bread, a small styrofoam cup with warm, spiced chickpeas, yogurt, sour chutney, and sliced red onions on the side? Yes, please! To be erroneously American in describing Chani Baturi to the uninitiated, let’s say they are the Indian equivalent of chili cheese fries. Two parts crunchy and greasy to one part spicy and satisfying: a winning equation in any culture. We have wonderful Indian food all over the valley, but when Rani's showed up on the scene in 2010, the Indian grocery chain was a revelation. Its spice aisle remains a corridor of wonders; the fresh service counter is where you can find myriad northern Indian fare at reasonable prices, all vegetarian and all delicious. — B.H.

Opening a fine-dining restaurant downtown was a gamble, but it paid off for the late Kerry Simon and restaurateur Cory Harwell. Their Black Rice & Oxtail Risotto is a timeless favorite. It has all the elements of surprise: hearty, velvety, and creamy. Unlike a traditional risotto made from Italian specialty rice, this dish uses black rice. Shredded braised oxtail is incorporated throughout, with the Parmesan cream sauce holding it together. The gremolata topping adds a contrast that cuts through the richness. This dish is like a loyal friend — it has stayed true and endured changes over the years. Classy and sophisticated, this elegant meal can soothe any ailment or a hard day at the slots, enjoyed in an environment that’s all about sharing. Simon would have approved. — S.B.

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Carson Kitchen

Compared to Freed’s multilayered, extravagantly finished cakes, their rugelach seem small and humbly made — but they’re equally responsible for the bakery’s reputation. The tiny, fruit-filled cookies make for an irresistible breakfast, dessert, or snack. The pastry is cream cheese, not butter, making for a richer, sweeter dough. Choose from a half-dozen fillings, including faintly spicy walnut-cinnamon, fruity-sweet apricot-raisin, and rich raspberry-chocolate … and try not to eat the whole box. — L.T.R.

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Freed's Bakery

I’m a sucker for succulent shrimp. And like many food fanatics, New Orleans remains among my top American dining destinations. For a flavor of NOLA in Vegas, get your paws on the Cajun BBQ Shrimp at Main St. Provisions in downtown. Bold, buttery, and bathing in a warm bowl of blackening spices, it’s a nod to owner Kim Owens’ Louisiana heritage. Dip the grilled bread or pretty much anything in that sauce. This might be the best shrimp bite in the valley. — L.B.M.

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Main St. Provisions

Much of the appeal of the tableside Caesar salad at the Golden Steer is watching the action, as the server mixes, blends, tosses, and plates the final creation. But it’s the ingredients that make it special, starting with Dijon mustard and progressing through minced garlic, ground anchovy, egg yolk, a blend of canola and extra-virgin olive oils, Worcestershire sauce and red wine vinegar. With flourishes of Tabasco sauce and freshly squeezed lemon, the mixture is tossed with romaine, showered with grated Parmesan cheese and crowned with house-made croutons. And it’s also served at the Golden Steer New York, which opened in January at 1 Fifth Ave. — H.K.R.

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Golden Steer Steakhouse

Rich, sweet, vegan, and beautiful — no, it's not the they/them you swiped right on in Grinder last week. It's the Carrot Cake at Public Us. In many ways, this vanguard hipster eatery encapsulates the best intentions of the Tony Hsieh era in which it came to be. A flow state of creative projects, cultural capital holders, and creative class professionals collide in extremely generative ways. The carrot cake sums up the vibe in a single dish. Satisfying and thoughtful despite the restricted ingredients, it’s a fulfilling, memorable, ingenious take on a dish that could easily be predictable. — B.H.

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Public Us

When Pa’ina Café opened 10 years ago in a humble strip mall, it boasted a small menu of authentic island fare consisting mainly of poké bowls, desserts, and drinks. Today, this fast-casual eatery has expanded its selections and opened a second location on Blue Diamond Boulevard. This creation is a testament to that resiliency. It satisfies the curious and offers a bowl of comfort and familiarity to Las Vegas’ Ninth Island culture and beyond. The shoyu ginger-marinated salmon adds depth with its umami, savory, and sweet flavors, melding harmoniously with the pickled red onions, radish sprouts, shredded nori, and masago situated on a bed of rice. The lemon citrus aioli drizzle further exemplifies the elevated experience and shows how a simple dish bowled me over. Mahalo. — S.B.

The World Pizza champion, Floriana Pastore, is known for her perfect Neapolitan pies served piping hot from her enormous Signora food truck or her newer Pizza Lab on North Rainbow, but have you tried her “pizza wallet”? In Naples, it’s called a Pizza a Portafoglio because it’s folded four ways. The traditional Italian street food originated in the 1700s. It’s a handheld portable pizza margherita for those on the run, and I’m all in for anything that makes devouring a pizza even easier. — L.B.M.

It’s the turducken of Japanese pastry; you get mochi, ice cream, and red beans in one confection! I dream about the mochi dessert at Doanburi; it’s presented with a delicate translucent blanket of mochi. Under the pliable cover, savor the umami of green tea ice cream and soy sauce caramel. The bottom layer of red beans feels homey and soothing. Unlike most professional chefs, Jae Doan excels at both savory and sweet dishes. Desserts are crafted in-house with painstaking attention to detail. Just like this restaurant and its gifted chef, the mochi finale (which is an off-menu item) is at once comforting and elevated. — L.B.M.

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Doanburi

There is no more Northtown you can get than a cheeseburger from Hamburger Hut! Are there more elaborate, extravagant, and exceptional burgers populating our city? Possibly, but this small neighborhood restaurant has produced one of the most satiating iterations of ground beef, cheese, and two buns this well-traveled eater has experienced anywhere. No frills, no hype, just a burger like the good Lord intended it to be. What Hamburger Hut lacks in style it makes up for with consistency and authenticity, and is a must-have experience if you want to understand where you're at. — B.H.

This hidden gem, shadowed by a car shop in the front, may be hard to find, but once you do, you’ll experience pastry bliss. The intimate space exudes a European vibe, but it’s owner Diana Dimitrova’s handcrafted desserts, with the majority being vegan and gluten-free, that showcase a blend of European hospitality and Las Vegas creativity. One is the Earl Grey-infused mousse. It’s light, airy, and whimsical. It resembles a stack of flourless, cloudlike, madeleine-shaped cookies, displaying ombré hues of red, orange, and yellow. Each layer unfolds with passion fruit jelly and crumbly almond cake. A bite of this tea-based dessert can transport you to the past or future. Alcohol not infused. — S.B.

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Nutriente Pastry Studio

Vickis Diner has had its ups and downs. From 1955-2014, Tiffany’s Diner was the only independent 24-hour diner on Las Vegas Boulevard — a mainstay of late-night creature culture, providing meal breaks from the reckless debauchery of Downtown Vegas’ ever-evolving social scene. Even after the place changed its name and location, and winnowed its hours, the trout and eggs plate remains on the menu. As inexplicable in a desert greasy spoon as “that painting” is on Vickie’s wall. (If you know, you know.) It's a beautiful breakfast to begin a fresh day or to finish an all-night bender. — B.H.

A comfort-food Larb might initially seem too simple, not what you expect as a must-order on the menu of a James Beard award-winner. It’s allegedly a salad, although the main ingredient is beef, chicken, or pork that is finely chopped and seasoned with fish sauce, chiles, sugar, and a variety of herbs. The taste unfolds with each forkful, a mixture of subtle, mouth-spreading spice with sweet/sour undertones that lingers on the palate. —L.T.R.

There are so many highlights on Chef Steve Kestler’s new menu at Aroma Latin America Cocina, but I keep drooling over the enchiladas. They’re stuffed with gochujang chicken tinga and served with a tangy salsa verde, queso fundido, guacamole, and Korean pickles. The dish also comes with a hearty and piquant kimchi rice. These enchiladas are the perfect Latin-Asian mashup, crave-worthy and delightful. — L.B.M.

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Aroma Latin American Cocina