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Eat this now: Pan-roasted chicken at 35 Steaks + Martinis

Pan-roasted chicken
Christopher Smith
Christopher Smith

at 35 Steaks + Martinis

In the Hard Rock hotel/casino, 702-693-5500

I know: Why, why, why (forehead-slap!) get chicken at a steakhouse? Because this pan-roasted chicken is like Chicken: The Concept Album on a plate. The main breast serving is delicate and tender, with a perfect brown crisp on the skin that looks like it was applied with an airbrush. It’s served on a bed of trofie — elegant but unfussy capsule pasta — swimming in an earthy mushroom truffle cream previously only available to one-percenter forest pixies. Save the pastry-wrapped drumstick for last. The crispy wrapper flakes away to reveal a confit leg so rich and velvety you might as well consider it dessert. This dish is $34 à la carte, but if you get it as a course in 35 Steaks + Martinis' $49 summer prix fixe menu, it’ll be just one sumptuous surprise among many offered by this underrated Hard Rock restaurant. Andrew Kiraly

As a longtime journalist in Southern Nevada, native Las Vegan Andrew Kiraly has served as a reporter covering topics as diverse as health, sports, politics, the gaming industry and conservation. He joined Desert Companion in 2010, where he has helped steward the magazine to become a vibrant monthly publication that has won numerous honors for its journalism, photography and design, including several Maggie Awards.