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Eat this now: Hot links

John Mull's

At John Mull’s Meats/Road Kill Grill

3730 Thom Blvd.,

Because hot links aren’t upscale; they’re not haute; they lack Instagrammable architecture or presentation. Because they’re simple, handmade on-site from quality pork, and are best eaten in a reverie of unrepentant gluttony. Because for $12.50 you get a vast ladling of sliced links, along with two sides, cornbread and a soda and your choice of sauce, sweet or spicy. (I go for sweet because I also order beans, and beans + spicy might lead to an extinction-level event) — $12.50. That’s some cost-effective eating right there. Because although they’re called “hot” links, they’re not so spicy that their robust flavor is masked behind excessive mouth-scorch. Because when I want to eat like a pig, this is the pig I want to eat.

Scott Dickensheets is a Las Vegas writer and editor whose trenchant observations about local culture have graced the pages of publications nationwide.