Around Thanksgiving, many family cooks are thinking about turkey, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce — or perhaps, for our devoted NPR fans, the late Susan Stamberg’s famous cranberry relish. But not everyone.
The fall holidays in the U.S. include a great variety of traditions — some that apply to cultural groups and others that are particular to individual families.
A group of foodies from a variety of backgrounds shared both their particular customs for this time of year and their thoughts on Thanksgiving, generally. One thing they all had in common? Encouraging people to learn more about the history behind the dishes they put on their tables.
"Traditionally in America, Thanksgiving is a time of gathering, a time of being with your family, a time of giving thanks, of course," said Tammi Tiger, director of UNLV's Tribal Education Initiative. "But it's important to know that that is not a true and accurate story that our children are told usually in school about the pilgrims and meeting the Native American tribes of that area." Tiger reminded listeners that many Indigenous groups observe a day of prayer and mourning to mark the first contact with European settlers, rather than holding a celebration.
She added that her own approach to Thanksgiving has evolved over the years, as she learned more about U.S. history. "Now, I get together with friends, or I'm at home and cooking, or just being with family, but not necessarily like your traditional Thanksgiving meal on Thursday," she said. "However, the next day is Native American Day, and so usually I'll do something, gathering with my family, preparing traditional foods for us, and celebrating in that way."
She noted that the so-called "three sisters," of corn, beans and squash are used in many of the dishes she likes to cook now, including Tanchi Labona.
Corn is also important to DJ Flores, founder of Milpa, a mexican restaurant, and Nocturno bar. The philosophy of Milpa, Flores said, is closely intertwined with the history of corn. "We came back to the roots, right? So I worked in Mexico City, saw what they do for just a normal corn tortilla," he said. "We wanted to bring back that tradition. ... It's really telling a story of how we should be looking at each ingredient. So, all of our corn masa is done in house. All of our tortillas are done in house."
Corn also shows up in the traditional holiday dish of tamales. Flores said it's become standard at many Mexican restaurants today to offer a variety of traditional and original tamales, such as birria, chicken salsa verde, or butternut squash tamales.
"I think a lot of chefs nowadays are very aware of how people across cultures are celebrating Thanksgiving differently or not celebrating Thanksgiving," said Lorraine Blanco Moss, a chef and food writer who contributes to Desert Companion. "I think I started in 2020 during the pandemic, because I had more time to think about Indigenous people and how they may celebrate or not celebrate the holiday. And so, I've every year since then, tried to do something that was related to three sisters."
She combines that with nods to her own Filipino and Portuguese heritage, as well as traditional American Thanksgiving meals, to prepare a multicultural feast. Her mom brings arroz gordo, a tomato-based rice dish, while Moss makes a Basque burnt cheesecake and ube bread pudding.
"Thanksgiving is my Super Bowl," she said. It's important to know the history of what actually happened between colonial American settlers and Indigenous people in Plymouth, Massachusetts, in the 17th century, she said, but for her the day is about cooking for loved ones. "It's just the idea of having all my family there, and I can cook all the things and just go completely nuts on it. And so I always do it."
And as a former chef, she had a word of advice about turkey: Always spatchcock it!
Flores said he wouldn't be cooking that day, but he would be enjoying the cooking of those close to him.
And for people who are new to alternative celebrations, Tiger recommended visiting the new Southern Paiute garden at the Springs Preserve, where visitors can learn about Indigenous foods. Or, she added, "I would go out on the land. That's always the best way to observe and just have space with yourself and enjoy nature."
Guests: Tammi Tiger, director of UNLV's Tribal Education Initiative; DJ Flores, founder of Milpa Mexican restaurant; and Lorraine Blanco Moss, a Las Vegas food writer, chef and regular Desert Companion contributor
